Consult Recap — Kudla
The Garden Nerd · Consult Recap

Planting Recommendations

A written recap of everything we walked through on-site — area by area, with what to plant, spacing, and the reasoning behind each call, so this is a plan you can run with on your own timeline.

Prepared for: Michael & Glenda Kudla · 4940 S. Springs Dr, Chandler, AZ 85249

01

Behind the pool — tropical area

Remove existing tree & cactus · banana, hibiscus, canna lily

Pulling the existing tree and cactus out and turning this into a true tropical pocket. The banana plants anchor it — one on each side plus one in the middle — with hibiscus and canna lily filling in between them for color and layering.

The rock here needs to come out and be replaced with mulch. Rock works against tropical plants like these — it holds heat and doesn't let the clumps spread the way they want to. Both banana and canna spread by producing pups, so mulch (not rock) gives them room to do that naturally.

BeforePool area, before
After (AI visualization)Pool area, after tropical planting visualization
The "after" image is an AI-generated visualization meant to show the general effect, not an exact rendering.
Banana plants3 total — one each side, one center
Hibiscus2 — red, yellow, or pink varieties (best heat tolerance here)
Canna lily4 — planted in between the bananas
Ground coverRemove existing rock, replace with mulch
Planting timeFall
Soil prepAmend each hole with 25% compost + worm castings
MulchApply heavily after planting
BananaSpreads by sending up pups from the base, gradually forming a full clump — give it room and consistent water and it'll fill in fast.
HibiscusRed, yellow, and pink varieties hold up best against Chandler summers and will bloom continuously through the warm months.
Canna lilyAlso spreads by rhizome/pups like the banana, so it naturally fills the gaps between them over time rather than staying put as single plants.

One more for this area: just to the west (left) of the banana/hibiscus/canna planting, we're adding one Barbados cherry — no mockup for this one. It's an edible, fruiting shrub — small pink flowers followed by bright red, vitamin-C-rich fruit — and it fits well as a transition piece next to the tropical bed.

Watch: Barbados Cherry overview
02

Back wall — hopseed hedge

Remove honeysuckle & cactus · hopseed hedge, full length of wall

The honeysuckle and cactus along this wall come out, and the entire length gets lined with a hopseed hedge. Once it fills in, expect it to sit about 2 feet above the top of the block wall.

BeforeBack wall, before
After (AI visualization)Back wall, after hopseed hedge visualization
The "after" image is an AI-generated visualization meant to show the general effect, not an exact rendering.
PlantHopseed bush (Dodonaea viscosa)
Distance from wall2 feet
Spacing4 feet apart, to fill in quickly
Mature height (this application)~2 feet above the block wall
03

West of the pool — where the brown mulch is

Desert milkweed & Greg's mistflower · no mockup for this one

Just west of the pool, where the brown mulch currently sits, we're adding desert milkweed along with a generous planting of Greg's mistflower. The mistflower fills in all the bare ground between and around everything else, turning this whole strip into a butterfly magnet.

Desert milkweed
3 plants

Desert Milkweed

Asclepias subulata

Thin, upright, leafless-looking blue-green stems that read almost sculptural against the wall. It's the host plant monarch butterflies lay eggs on, uses very little water, and blooms with small clusters of pale yellow flowers.

Greg's mistflower
10–15 plants

Greg's Mistflower

Conoclinium greggii

A low, fine-textured spreader covered in fuzzy purple-blue blooms most of the year. It's one of the best butterfly plants for this climate and does exactly what you want here — fills every bare gap on its own.

Desert milkweed spacingStandard spacing, allow room to mature
Mistflower spacingAs close as you like — tropicals and fillers like this do well planted tight
04

South wall (north-facing) — hedge options

Two directions to choose between

Goal here is the same either way: hide the block wall, cool the yard down, and add privacy from the neighbors. Two options, both planted 4 feet apart to fill in quickly.

South wall, before
Before — current state of the wall
Ficus hedge visualization
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Ficus Hedge

  • Grows taller than Orange Jubilee — more height and privacy over time
  • Uses more water to maintain
  • Less tolerant of our heat and cold swings
  • Root system is more aggressive — worth watching near the wall
Both "after" images are AI-generated visualizations meant to show the general effect, not exact renderings.
Spacing (either option)4 feet apart
05

Three new trees in the backyard

Peach (Florida Prince), Chinese Elm, Red Push Pistache

Placement is mapped on the aerial photo below. The peach tree lands to form a triangle with your two existing citrus trees.

Aerial view of backyard with tree placement marked
Chinese Elm
Red Push Pistache
Peach — triangles with the 2 existing citrus
Peach — Florida PrinceA low-chill variety bred for mild winters like ours, so it still gets enough cold hours to fruit reliably. Ripens early, self-fertile.
Chinese ElmFast-growing shade tree, semi-evergreen, non-aggressive roots — safe near hardscape, and it fills in a canopy quickly.
Red Push PistacheFast-growing shade tree known for vivid red new growth and strong fall color. Doesn't need much water once established, and it's a clean, non-messy shade tree.
Tree size to plant15 gallon or smaller
Why smallerSmaller trees establish faster and outperform larger boxed trees from the nursery long-term
Planting timeSeptember
06

Front yard — shade tree first

Remove rock · large ficus tree

Right now the front yard is all rock. The move here is to pull the rock and get a large ficus tree in the ground — the point right now is just getting this shade tree established and growing. Everything else shown in the "after" is an idea for later; the priority is getting the shade tree in first, since it takes the longest to have an impact.

The grass underneath is St. Augustine, which is actually a good match here — it does much better in shade than most warm-season grasses, so it'll benefit as the ficus canopy fills in over the tree.

BeforeFront yard, before
After (AI visualization — idea, not the current plan)Front yard, after visualization
The "after" image shows a fuller long-term idea. What to actually do now is just the tree — see below.
Tree size to plant15 gallon or smaller
Why smallerSame as the backyard trees — smaller trees establish faster and outperform larger nursery trees long-term
Existing grassSt. Augustine — does well in shade, will benefit as the tree fills in
Where to start now

Three things to do first

  1. Expose the root flares on both existing citrus treesGet the base of each trunk uncovered — this is quick, no cost, and something to knock out right away.
  2. Start removing the rockBegin pulling rock from the pool area, back wall strip, and front yard so those beds are ready to plant into come fall.
  3. Plant the large shade trees in SeptemberThe Chinese Elm, Red Push Pistache, peach, and the front yard ficus all go in once temperatures cool down — these take the longest to establish, so getting them started first matters most.
If you'd like us to handle any of this Everything in this recap is written so you can take it and run with it yourselves — sourcing plants, spacing, and timing are all here. If you'd rather we handle the planting, that's something we do too: thegardennerd.org/garden-nerd-planting-services.
The Garden Nerd · thegardennerd.org