Yolanda, here's what we covered

Since you're fine losing the fence, a hedge is a great replacement

You mentioned you're not a fan of this fence along the driveway and you're okay taking it out, so I'd replace it with a hedge instead. You've got options depending on how tall and colorful you want it. Hopseed and Little Ollie (a dwarf olive) both take pruning well and are easy to keep low and tidy if you want something compact along the driveway. Texas Sage and Baja Fairy Duster bring color into the mix at a similar low-to-medium size, Texas Sage with silvery foliage and purple blooms, Baja Fairy Duster with wispy red blooms. If you'd rather have more height and screening, Orange Jubilee and Yellow Bells will grow taller and fuller, both fast growers with color most of the year on top of it.

Feed the grass and fill in the thin spots

Back here, I'd top the whole lawn with a layer of compost to add organic matter and feed the soil underneath. For the rough or thin patches specifically, composted chicken manure is a great spot treatment to bring those areas back. Underneath the trees where it's too shaded for grass to hold on, clover is a much better fit, it tolerates shade well and still gives you green ground cover instead of bare dirt. The end of September is a great time to get clover seed down. Rake the soil lightly to loosen it up first, then spread the seed so it makes good contact with the soil.

When you mow, let the clippings fall and stay on the lawn instead of bagging them, they break down quickly and feed the soil right back, it's a free source of organic matter you're already producing. I'd also bump the mower height up and keep the grass a little longer than you might be used to, longer grass shades its own roots, which helps it look more lush, grow in thicker, and get by on less water.

Two different treatments here, beds and the ground around them

Inside the actual garden beds, I'd put down about an inch of woodchips over the soil. It holds moisture in so you're not watering as often, keeps the soil temperature more even, and as it slowly breaks down it feeds everything growing in the bed with more nutrients over time.

On the ground around the beds, you've got grass working its way in that we need to deal with differently. I'd lay cardboard down there first, then a heavier layer of woodchips on top. The only other ways to really get rid of grass like this are poison, which I'd rather avoid, or full shade, which isn't an option here since the beds themselves need sun to grow anything. Just don't weed whack it, that only cuts the top growth and leaves the rhizomes underground to spread right back. Dig in and pull the rhizomes out at the root, that's the only way to get rid of it for good.

Pretty much all of these trees need the same treatment

Most of the trees back here need a root flare excavation, same process as the fig tree, pull the grass back from the trunk and dig down until you can see where the trunk widens into the first roots. Now, in September, is a great time to take this on since we're heading into cooler weather. After you dig each one out, give it a good deep soak to help it recover. Here's the video walking through exactly how to find and expose the flare, and how to tell which roots actually need pruning.

If you run into questions on any specific tree once it's dug out, post a photo in the Garden Nerd Club and I'll help you sort out what to prune.

Ruellia is my first pick, here are a few backups too

Right up against the house here, I'd go with Ruellia first, it's low growing, blooms most of the year, and holds up well in a bed like this. If you want some other options to consider, Pencil Cactus brings a completely different, sculptural look if you want some vertical interest, and Firecracker Plant is another good pick if you want to bring in hummingbirds with something a little more upright.