Thanks for having me out, Bret. Below is everything we went over, in the order we walked the yard, with the details on each so you have it all in one place.
As a consult client, you're already in the Garden Nerd Club, so you have direct access to me there. If questions come up while you work through any of this, ask me there anytime.
The ficus hedge
These ficus are looking good. We already adjusted the watering. Post in the Garden Nerd Club in March and we'll adjust it again for the warmer months.
The main thing now is to trim them as little as possible. Twice a year is really all they need, and never in the middle of summer.
- When to trim: once in early spring and once in fall. Skip the summer. Fresh cuts in summer heat expose the inner leaves to sun and burn them, and the plants are already working hard just to get through the heat.
- How: lightly shape the outside. Don't trim monthly. Every cut forces new growth the plant has to feed, and constant trimming keeps it thin.
- Feeding: ditch the Miracle-Gro and other synthetics. Fed monthly with compost and organic fertilizer, these will get a lot thicker and fuller and be much happier long term. Everything you need is in the Fertilizing section below.
Replacing the grapefruit and hibiscus
You had a grapefruit tree and a hibiscus here that died. Another grapefruit will work here, set up the right way.
- Pull the rock back as far as you can. Rock around a tree soaks up heat and bakes the roots.
- Plant above grade, following the steps below.
- Make a big water well. Build a low ring of soil out at least 3 to 4 feet around the tree so water pools over the roots and soaks down.
- Add as much mulch as possible inside the well and across the area where you pulled the rock.
- Feed it regularly. Monthly is ideal. See the Fertilizing section below.
Planting above grade means keeping the root flare exposed. When it's buried, the bark stays wet, starts to rot, and roots can begin circling the trunk. Trees that are planted too deep are one of the most common reasons citrus slowly decline. This video shows why it matters, with real examples.
Can't see the video? Watch it on YouTube.
Grapefruit
Evergreen, fragrant spring blooms, and big fruit through winter. Grapefruit loves heat and does great here with deep water, mulch, and regular feeding.
Planting the grapefruit
- Size: start with a 15 gallon tree. Smaller trees establish faster and always end up being better trees long term than big boxed ones.
- Above grade: find the root flare, where the trunk widens into the roots, before you dig, and set the tree so the flare sits slightly above the surrounding ground, never buried. Dig the hole two to three times as wide as the root ball but no deeper.
- Backfill: native soil plus a tiny bit of compost in the hole, compost on top of the soil, then mulch over the compost, held a foot back from the trunk.
Other plants for this area
For around the new grapefruit, San Marcos hibiscus is a great alternative to the hibiscus that died. This yard is very hot, with lots of rock and concrete, so here are some other native and very desert adapted plants that can handle it.
San Marcos Hibiscus
Native mounding shrub, 3 to 5 feet, with deep green leaves and lavender flowers most of the year. A lush look that takes full afternoon sun and heat.
Red Bird of Paradise
Ferny foliage with fiery red and orange flowers all summer, 6 to 8 feet. Thrives in the hottest, most reflected spots. Cut it back hard in late winter. The seed pods are toxic, so trim them off if kids or pets are around.
Baja Fairy Duster
3 to 4 feet tall with bright red puffball flowers most of the year that hummingbirds love. Takes full west sun and can be lightly sheared into a loose, informal hedge.
Texas Sage
Silvery foliage with flushes of purple flowers after summer rains. Larger varieties like Green Cloud reach 6 to 8 feet; compact varieties stay 3 to 4 feet. Loves full west sun and hates being overwatered.
Globe Mallow
Native with silvery leaves and cup shaped orange flowers in spring. Takes full sun and heat. Native bees love it.
Red Yucca
Grassy clumps with tall coral red flower spikes spring through fall. Extremely tough in full sun and drops almost nothing.
Bush Morning Glory
Silvery mound with white flowers spring through fall. Takes full sun and reflected heat off rock and concrete.
Lantana
Flowers spring through fall and a magnet for butterflies. Takes full afternoon sun and reflected heat. Mounding types hold a low hedge around 3 feet; trailing types make a ground cover. Frost can nip it; cut it back in late February and it flushes right back.
My approach with a desert landscape is to add a lot of different plants for diversity. They don't need to be strategically placed. A little sporadic looks good and fuller. Keep lower growing plants near walkways and under trees. Other than that, just do your thing and don't stress about placement.
Replacing the purple leaf plums
Both of these purple leaf plums are struggling. One looks completely dead and the other is on its way out. This just isn't a good spot for them with the hot rock and hot yard around them.
A smaller ornamental tree that flowers would be a better fit. Desert willow is a good one, and here are some other desert adapted flowering trees.
Desert Willow
Native, 15 to 25 feet, with orchid like trumpet flowers in pink, purple, or white all summer. Light, airy canopy that loses its leaves in winter. A great small accent tree.
Texas Olive
Small evergreen tree, 15 to 20 feet, with clusters of white flowers spring through fall. Very tough in full sun. Flowers and small fruit do drop, so it's better here than near the pool.
Vitex
Small tree, 15 to 20 feet, covered in purple flower spikes through summer that bees love. Takes full sun and heat and loses its leaves in winter. Looks best grown multi trunk.
Fern of the Desert
Native, 15 to 20 feet, with fine, fernlike evergreen leaves and creamy flower spikes in late spring. Soft and graceful, and it never gets too big for a spot by the patio.
Mulga Acacia
Australian native, 15 to 20 feet, with fine silvery green evergreen leaves and yellow flower spikes in spring. Tough in full sun and rock, and takes less water than plants that aren't desert adapted.
You can't fit all of these. Pick the one you like best.
- Size: start with a 15 gallon tree. Smaller trees establish faster and always end up being better trees long term than big boxed ones.
- Above grade: find the root flare, where the trunk widens into the roots, before you dig, and set the tree so the flare sits slightly above the surrounding ground, never buried. Dig the hole two to three times as wide as the root ball but no deeper.
- Backfill: native soil plus a tiny bit of compost in the hole, compost on top of the soil, then mulch over the compost, held a foot back from the trunk.
Shrubs to fill in this area
Same idea in this area. Here are some smaller native and desert adapted shrubs that give color, look good, don't shed a lot, and can take the heat.
Pink Fairy Duster
Native, low and airy, 2 to 3 feet, with soft pink puffball flowers in late winter and spring. Drops very little.
Baja Fairy Duster
3 to 4 feet tall with bright red puffball flowers most of the year that hummingbirds love. Takes full west sun and can be lightly sheared into a loose, informal hedge.
Globe Mallow
Native with silvery leaves and cup shaped orange flowers in spring. Takes full sun and heat. Native bees love it.
Chuparosa
Native with green stems and red tubular flowers through winter and spring. A hummingbird favorite that stays green most of the year.
Penstemon
Tall flower spikes in red, pink, or purple in spring. Hummingbirds and native bees love it.
Autumn Sage
Compact, 2 to 3 feet, with red, pink, or coral flowers fall through spring. Takes full sun and can be sheared into a tidy low border.
Damianita
Low, tidy mound of fine green foliage covered in golden yellow flowers in spring and fall. Stays about a foot tall and 2 feet wide.
Red Yucca
Grassy clumps with tall coral red flower spikes spring through fall. Extremely tough in full sun and drops almost nothing.
Desert Marigold
Low mound of gray leaves with bright yellow daisies most of the year. Reseeds itself and keeps color going.
Texas Sage
Silvery foliage with flushes of purple flowers after summer rains. Larger varieties like Green Cloud reach 6 to 8 feet; compact varieties stay 3 to 4 feet. Loves full west sun and hates being overwatered.
My approach with a desert landscape is to add a lot of different plants for diversity. They don't need to be strategically placed. A little sporadic looks good and fuller. Keep lower growing plants near walkways and under trees. Other than that, just do your thing and don't stress about placement.
Replacing the two citrus
You used to have two citrus here, and both died. A few things will set the new ones up to do well.
- Take the rock out completely and replace it with mulch. Rock is a big part of why this spot gets so hot.
- Dig a large water well around each tree, a low ring of soil out 3 to 4 feet, so water soaks deep over the roots.
- Plant them above grade, using the planting steps below.
- Watering: we got the watering set up while I was there. It's the same as on all the other trees.
- Shade them their first summer. Once summer hits next year, put up a shade structure on the afternoon side, shade cloth on a simple frame works great. Once you get them through that first summer, they should be fine.
- Feed them regularly. Citrus are heavy feeders. Monthly feeding is covered in the Fertilizing section below.
Citrus
Evergreen, fragrant spring blooms, and fruit through winter. Citrus are heavy feeders and do best with deep water, mulch, and monthly feeding.
- Where to buy: Greenfield Citrus Nursery is the best place for citrus. It's a bit of a drive, but that's where the best trees are.
- Trunk protection: if the trees come with cardboard wrapped around the trunk, leave it on for the first year or so, until they can shade their own trunks.
- First year fruit: pull off any fruit that sets the first year so the trees put that energy into roots.
Planting the citrus
- Size: start with a 15 gallon tree. Smaller trees establish faster and always end up being better trees long term than big boxed ones.
- Above grade: find the root flare, where the trunk widens into the roots, before you dig, and set the tree so the flare sits slightly above the surrounding ground, never buried. Dig the hole two to three times as wide as the root ball but no deeper.
- Backfill: native soil plus a tiny bit of compost in the hole, compost on top of the soil, then mulch over the compost, held a foot back from the trunk.
Mulch
- Where to get it: ChipDrop connects you with local arborists who drop off fresh wood chips, often for free. Arizona Worm Farm also has good mulch and compost. We can also deliver and spread it for you at $150 per cubic yard.
- What kind: natural wood mulch. Arborist chips, a mix of wood and leaves, are the best for the soil. Skip dyed mulch.
- How deep: 3 inches is ideal, but even an inch or two makes a real difference. Any mulch is much better than rock.
- Compost first: spread an inch of compost and lay the mulch over it. No need to work either one in.
- Keep it back: a foot back from tree trunks and a few inches off shrub stems.
Replacing the ash
This ash tree is struggling, and in my opinion it's not worth the time, energy, and money to save. Pull it out and replace it with something native. This spot gets a lot of sun and is surrounded by rock, which is exactly what native trees are built for.
Desert willow, native velvet mesquite, and Texas ebony are all good options. Here are a couple more.
Desert Willow
Native, 15 to 25 feet, with orchid like trumpet flowers in pink, purple, or white all summer. Light, airy canopy that loses its leaves in winter. A great small accent tree.
Native Velvet Mesquite
The native mesquite, 25 to 30 feet, with a wide, airy canopy and filtered shade. It supports local wildlife in ways the non native hybrids don't: its spring flowers feed native bees, birds nest in it, and the pods feed wildlife. Tough in full sun and rock.
Texas Ebony
Compact, evergreen tree, 15 to 25 feet, with dark green leaves, a dense canopy, and cream colored flowers in late spring. Very tough in full sun and reflected heat. Small thorns on young growth.
Desert Ironwood
Native evergreen, 20 to 30 feet, with dense gray green shade and lavender flowers in spring. Slower to start, but one of the longest lived, toughest native trees there is.
Desert Museum Palo Verde
Fast growing native hybrid, 20 to 30 feet, with green bark and a big show of yellow flowers in spring. Thornless, takes full sun and heat, and takes less water than plants that aren't desert adapted.
You can't fit all of these. Pick the one you like best.
- Size: start with a 15 gallon tree. Smaller trees establish faster and always end up being better trees long term than big boxed ones.
- Above grade: find the root flare, where the trunk widens into the roots, before you dig, and set the tree so the flare sits slightly above the surrounding ground, never buried. Dig the hole two to three times as wide as the root ball but no deeper.
- Backfill: native soil plus a tiny bit of compost in the hole, compost on top of the soil, then mulch over the compost, held a foot back from the trunk.
Fertilizing
All of the non desert plants here, the ficus, the trees, and especially the citrus, need to be fed regularly to be happy and healthy. Ditch the Miracle-Gro and other synthetics. They give a quick push of growth and then crash, and they don't build anything in the soil. Feeding is really about feeding the soil life. Fungi, bacteria, and worms break down organic matter and hand nutrients to the roots steadily. Fed monthly this way, the ficus will thicken up and the new trees will establish much faster. Here's the exact approach I use, so you can do it yourself.
- Compost, and be generous. On trees, spread it in a wide ring around the drip line, the outer edge of the canopy where most of the feeder roots are, from about halfway in to a couple feet past the edge. On shrubs, hedges, and vines, put it closer in, from a few inches off the stems out about a foot past the edge of the plant. Go 1 to 2 inches deep, and if you're unsure, go thicker rather than thinner. You really can't overdo quality compost. Do this three times a year: late winter (February), early summer (May), and fall (October).
- Worm castings every quarter. Every three months, scatter worm castings over the same areas: a few cups around each shrub and a couple pounds around the drip line of each tree. Castings are loaded with beneficial microbes that bring the soil to life. When it lines up with a compost round, put the castings down first and the compost right over them.
- A good organic fertilizer. These are the three products we use and recommend, all from Catalyst. Apply them at the label rate on the schedule each one gives.
Jenner 8
Liquid organic feed for the whole landscape.
Organic Nitro Jen
Organic nitrogen to push healthy green growth.
Kelp Fertilizer
Kelp based feed that supports roots and overall plant health.
You can find all three on the Catalyst website. Click Products, then Home and Garden.
- Water it all in. Give everything a deep watering right after you put it down so it soaks into the root zone.
- Mulch over the top. Mulch goes over the compost to keep it moist and cool so the soil life can do its work. Hold it a foot back from trunks and stems. No need to work any of it into the soil.
Compost, worm castings, and mulch are all at Arizona Worm Farm.
If you'd rather we handle it
Our monthly landscape fertilizing program feeds the whole yard for you.
- Covers the ficus hedge, the citrus and grapefruit, the trees, and the rest of the landscape
- Monthly compost based liquid feeding across the full landscape
- Compost applications three times a year
- A recap video sent to you after each visit
Quick reference
Organic fertilizers
Catalyst (Products, then Home and Garden)Compost, mulch, worm castings
Arizona Worm FarmFree wood chips
ChipDropCitrus and grapefruit
Greenfield Citrus NurseryRoot flare video
Why the root flare mattersIrrigation
Garrett: 480-678-9121Questions and watering adjustments
Post in the Garden Nerd Club, and again in MarchNext steps
You can take this list and do it yourself, and I'm right there in the Garden Nerd Club if you want a second set of eyes along the way. If you'd rather have us handle the planting, like the new citrus, the replacement trees, and the shrubs, I can put together a planting proposal for you.
For anything irrigation related, call Garrett at 480-678-9121.
You can see more of what we do on our planting services page.