Consultation Write-Up | Ashley Telidis | The Garden Nerd
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Ashley Telidis
1225 E Warner Rd, Unit 22, Tempe, AZ 85284
Walked September 28, 2026

Thanks for having me out. Everything we talked about is below, in the order we walked, starting in the backyard and ending at the front of the house. The big themes are pulling the rock back in favor of mulch, feeding everything regularly, and giving the trees deep, weekly water.

01  |  Backyard

Filling in the ground with purples and pinks

Back in this area, the goal is plants that cover the ground and fill in the space. Since you like purples and pinks, ruellia is a great place to start, and the others below all bloom in that same color range.

Pull the rock back first and put mulch down before you plant. Rock holds heat against the plants and the soil. Mulch keeps the ground cooler, holds moisture, and feeds the soil as it breaks down. Space these at the widths listed and let them grow together.

Seeding this area with hollyhocks is also an option, and now is a great time to do it. They come up tall along the wall with big pink, purple, and white flowers in spring. Scatter the seed on bare soil, press it in lightly, and keep it moist until it sprouts.

The orange jubilee along the wall should stop being pruned so much. Left alone, they'll fill in, cover more of the wall, and keep flowering. Constant trimming keeps them thin and cuts off the blooms.

Filling in the ground with purples and pinks

Pick three or four and mix them so something purple or pink is blooming in every season.

Ruellia

3 to 4 feet

Dense and evergreen with purple flowers most of the warm season. Fills in fast.

Pink Ruellia

3 to 4 feet

Same dense, evergreen shrub as the purple ruellia, with soft pink flowers through the warm season. Mix the two for both colors.

Hollyhock

From seed, 4 to 6 feet

Tall spikes of big pink, purple, and white flowers in spring. Seed them now along the wall.

Trailing Lantana

Spreads 4 to 6 feet

Covers a lot of ground quickly with purple flowers most of the year.

Trailing Indigo Bush

Spreads 6 to 8 feet

Silver gray native with purple flowers in spring. Covers the most ground per plant.

Autumn Sage

2 to 3 feet

Pink, red, or coral flowers in spring and fall. Hummingbirds love it.

Pink Muhly Grass

3 to 4 feet

Soft clumps with clouds of pink plumes in fall.

Purple Heart

1 foot, spreading

Trailing purple foliage with small pink flowers. Grows in sun or part shade.

02  |  Backyard

A shade tree for this corner

You want a tree here that grows up and gives you real shade. Another Chinese elm or a red push pistache are my top two picks. Both handle our heat well and have a nice, full canopy. Here are a few other options as well.

Plant it about 10 feet off the wall so the canopy has room to spread.

A shade tree for this corner

Chinese elm and red push pistache are my top picks. Pick one for this spot.

Chinese Elm

30 to 40 feet

Fast, wide shade and only bare for a short stretch in winter. Handles heat and reflected light well.

Red Push Pistache

25 to 35 feet

Solid shade in summer and red and orange color in fall. Well behaved roots.

Tipu

30 to 40 feet

The fastest of the group, with a wide umbrella canopy and yellow flowers in late spring. Needs the most room.

Carob

30 to 40 feet

Evergreen, dense, and rounded, with deep green leaves year round.

Mesquite

25 to 30 feet

Native, fast, and wide. Plan on structural pruning each winter while it's young.

03  |  Backyard

The same plan for all the trees back here

It's going to be the same theme for all of the trees back here. Don't prune anything for now. Leave them alone until next summer and let them grow back in. They need their leaves right now to rebuild energy.

Give them deep, infrequent soaks. Get the hose out here and water each tree deeply once a week, letting it run slowly out toward the edge of the canopy so the water soaks down deep where the roots are.

Then let's get some fertilizing going. I've laid out exactly what you can do yourself, and what our service would cost, in the Soil and Feeding section below.

The same plan for all the trees back here
04  |  Backyard

The fern of the desert

This is a fern of the desert tree, and it's growing great. There's nothing to do on it right now.

Wait until this time next year, then have a certified arborist come out to look at it and do any structural pruning it needs. King's Tree Service is who I recommend.

The fern of the desert

Fern of the Desert

15 to 20 feet

Fine, feathery leaves that break down into the soil instead of piling up. Fast and clean.

05  |  Backyard

Replanting the Lady Banks roses

This is where you had the Lady Banks roses. One survived, and the others up against the hot block wall didn't make it. You can replant them, and now is a great time of year to do it.

Before you plant, pull all of the rock back and put mulch down. The rock against that hot wall is a big part of why they struggled. Then feed them on a regular basis. Roses are heavy feeders and want lots and lots of food. Lay compost on top of the soil around each rose every month through the growing season, add composted chicken manure a few times a year, and keep a layer of mulch over it all. Water deeply so the whole root zone gets wet, rather than a little every day.

Replanting the Lady Banks roses

Lady Banks Rose

Climbing, 15 to 20 feet

Thornless climbing rose covered in small yellow flowers in spring. Vigorous once it's established.

06  |  Backyard

The ficus benjamina

This is a ficus benjamina. Pull the rock back from around it, then build a water well, a low ring of soil a few inches high around the tree out near the edge of the canopy, so water soaks in right where the roots are instead of running off.

Put mulch inside the well, keeping it about a foot back from the trunk, then feed it with compost on top of the soil. Give it a deep soak now, and keep giving it lots and lots of water. Fill the well slowly and let it soak in.

The ficus benjamina
07  |  Backyard

Plants for the shady spots

This bougainvillea is getting too much shade under the Chinese elm. Bougainvillea needs full sun to grow and flower, so it's never going to be happy here.

Here are a few options that do well in the more shaded areas of your yard. The vines can cover the wall, and the ferns and purple heart fill in the ground underneath.

Plants for the shady spots

Pick one for the wall and one or two to fill in the ground.

Star Jasmine

Vine

Evergreen with very fragrant white flowers in spring. Grows well in shade and covers a wall on a trellis.

Creeping Fig

Vine

Clings directly to the wall and covers it in small green leaves. Handles shade well.

Asparagus Fern

2 to 3 feet

Soft, airy, and fern like. Great for filling in under trees.

Foxtail Fern

2 feet

Upright plumes of bright green foliage. Tidy and easy in shade.

Purple Heart

1 foot, spreading

Trailing purple foliage that brightens up a shady spot.

Desert Honeysuckle

3 to 4 feet

Lush green leaves and orange tubular flowers. Handles part shade well.

08  |  Backyard

The old jacaranda

This old jacaranda is toast. I wouldn't waste any more time or energy on it. I'd take it out.

The old jacaranda
09  |  Backyard

The ash tree

Same with this ash tree. It's a goner. One option is to plant a new tree next to it and let it start growing, then take the ash out once the new one is established. But I wouldn't spend much time or effort trying to save the ash itself. Any of the shade trees listed earlier would work for the replacement.

The ash tree
10  |  Backyard

Another tree to take out

This one is also toast. I wouldn't spend any more time or effort on it.

Another tree to take out
11  |  Backyard

Privacy along the wall

Along this wall you're looking for privacy and to cover the wall. Twisted myrtle is what I'd go with here. This spot is a little shadier because of the ash tree, and twisted myrtle handles that well. It's dense, evergreen, and grows into a full screen.

Here are a few other options as well. Space them about 4 to 5 feet apart and let them grow together rather than shearing them tight, so they fill in faster. If you go with hopseed, know that right behind the tree there's a little more shade, and the hopseed will be a bit thinner in that spot.

Privacy along the wall

Twisted myrtle is my first pick. The others are good alternatives.

Twisted Myrtle

6 to 8 feet

Dense and evergreen with twisted leaves and a fresh scent. Handles part shade and grows into a full screen.

Arizona Rosewood

10 to 15 feet

Native, dense, and evergreen. Works in sun or part shade.

Hopseed

8 to 12 feet

Fast, dense, and tall. Right behind the tree it gets a little more shade, so the hopseed will be a bit thinner in that area.

Ficus Benjamina

Tall shrub

Glossy and full, and doesn't have the invasive roots of the ficus nitida hedges you see all over town.

12  |  Backyard

These roses are not toast

These roses definitely are not toast. Pull back the rock, put mulch down, and then feed them monthly with lots of compost. Roses are heavy feeders and want lots and lots of food. Lay compost on top of the soil around each rose every month through the growing season, add composted chicken manure a few times a year, and keep a layer of mulch over it all. Water deeply so the whole root zone gets wet, rather than a little every day.

These roses are not toast
13  |  Backyard

The raised garden beds

Not much to change on these raised beds. For what to plant and when, use my Maricopa County planting guide.

For feeding, top the beds off with fresh raised bed mix or compost from Arizona Worm Farm at the start of each season, since the soil settles and gets used up. Mix in a handful of worm castings when you plant. Through the season, lay a thin layer of compost on top of the soil every month or so, and give the beds an organic liquid feed every couple of weeks while plants are actively growing. Keep a light layer of mulch on top to hold moisture.

The raised garden beds
14  |  Backyard

More roses to mulch and feed

These roses are the same story. Pull back the rock, add mulch, and really feed them heavily. Roses are heavy feeders and want lots and lots of food. Lay compost on top of the soil around each rose every month through the growing season, add composted chicken manure a few times a year, and keep a layer of mulch over it all. Water deeply so the whole root zone gets wet, rather than a little every day.

More roses to mulch and feed
15  |  Front yard

Let the hopseed rest between trims

Stop pruning the hopseed so heavily. Take a month or two off between each hedging.

Every cut forces the plant to spend energy regrowing instead of filling in. Trimming less often, and taking off less each time, lets it thicken up and stay full all the way to the ground.

Let the hopseed rest between trims

Hopseed

8 to 12 feet

Fast and dense. Give it a month or two between trims so it stays full.

16  |  Front yard

A vine for the front wall

You like the idea of a vine here. Star jasmine is a great choice, and it needs a trellis to climb. Creeping fig is another good option, and it clings right to the wall without any support.

Here are a few other vines as well. For any of the twining vines, mount a trellis a few inches off the wall so air can move behind it, and plant the vine about a foot out from the base.

A vine for the front wall

Pick one and repeat it along the front for a clean, finished look.

Star Jasmine

Vine, needs a trellis

Glossy evergreen leaves and very fragrant white flowers in spring.

Creeping Fig

Vine, self-clinging

Clings directly to the wall and covers it in small green leaves. Keep it trimmed back from windows and the roofline.

Tangerine Crossvine

Vine

Fast and evergreen, covered in orange trumpet flowers in spring.

Bower Vine

Vine

Lush, glossy leaves and pink or white trumpet flowers through the warm months.

Lady Banks Rose

Climbing

Thornless, with small yellow flowers in spring.

Soil and feeding

Feeding the soil, not just the plants

Everything above does better in living soil. Compost laid on top of the soil feeds the fungi and bacteria that make nutrients available to your plants, holds water longer, and keeps roots cooler.

Here's exactly what we do in our fertilizing program, so you can have us handle it or do it yourself:

  • Monthly liquid feeding. We mix Tony's Magic Mix (A&P Nursery or Summerwinds) with Catalyst liquid fertilizer from Catalyst Product Group. For every 1,000 square feet, that works out to about 8 ounces of Tony's Magic Mix and about 19 ounces of Catalyst in 3 gallons of water, sprayed over the soil across the whole landscape.
  • Compost three times a year. Spring, summer, and fall, about an inch laid on top of the soil under trees, shrubs, and roses, never worked in. Arizona Worm Farm is my go to for compost and mulch.
  • Mulch over the compost. Two to three inches, kept a foot back from every trunk.
  • Extra food for the roses. Compost every month and composted chicken manure a few times a year.
$267
per month, all landscape including grass
Text me to start
  • Monthly liquid soil treatment. The organic blend above, applied across your whole landscape.
  • Compost three times a year. Organic matter added back to keep that biology fed.
  • A recap video after every visit. So you know what was done and what we're seeing.
Root flares

Root flare excavations

The root flare is where the trunk widens out into the main roots, and it should sit right at the soil line or slightly above it. When soil, rock, or mulch gets piled over it, the bark stays damp and the tree slowly struggles. It's one of the most common problems I see on trees in the Valley.

We do root flare excavations as well, $200 per tree. If you'd like to check your trees yourself, pull the soil back by hand, with a trowel, or with a strong stream of water from the hose until the flare shows. The video below shows why an exposed root flare matters so much, with examples of buried and exposed flares.

Next steps

You can do all of this yourself using the notes above. As a consult client, you're already in the Garden Nerd Club, so you have direct access to me there if questions come up along the way.

If you'd rather have us handle any of the planting, let me know which pieces you want and I'll put together a proposal. For irrigation, call Garrett at 480-678-9121. For tree removal and arborist work, King's Tree Service is who I recommend.

See our planting services.

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