Here's what we covered
Thanks to Hugh for walking the yard with me. I put this together in the same order we went through it. As a consult client, you're already in the Garden Nerd Club, so you've got direct access to me in there anytime you have questions as you work through this.
Buried too deep, needs a root flare excavation
This tree is buried too deep, soil has built up around the trunk over time from irrigation, and it's smothering the root flare. Digging that out lets the tree breathe and take up water properly again, and sets it up to grow bigger and live a lot longer.
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Check the rest for the same issue, and get them thinned
The same root flare problem tends to show up across a whole property once one tree has it, it's almost always tied to how the irrigation and mulch have built up over the years. I'd walk the rest of the trees back here and check each one for the same buried root flare before deciding how many need excavation.
Separately from the root flare work, these trees are also due for a real pruning. I'd bring in Spencer at King's Tree Service to thin out the canopies and do some reduction cuts. That lightens the load on the trees, improves airflow, and cuts down on how much shade they're throwing on the lawn underneath them, which matters for the grass work below too.
Same fix needed out front
This Chinese Elm needs a root flare excavation too. Between this one, the backyard tree, and whichever others turn out to need it, it's worth treating the whole property's root flares as one project rather than tackling them one at a time.
Aftercare matters as much as the digging
Once a root flare is excavated, give the tree a really good deep soak every two weeks for the next two months. That recovery window is what actually determines how well the tree bounces back, skipping it undoes a lot of the benefit of doing the excavation in the first place.
Root Flare Excavation
If you'd rather handle it yourselves, post in the Garden Nerd Club and I'll coach you through it step by step, no charge for that. If you'd rather we just do it, that's the per-tree rate above.
Text me to schedule
Not urgent, but here's what I'd plant along here
This isn't something to tackle right now, but whenever you're ready to line this wall, I'd use Hopseed, Arizona Rosewood, and Twisted Myrtle. You've already got some Twisted Myrtle established by the pool, so running more of it here will tie the two areas together.
Hopseed
Fast, thick, fills in quickly.
Arizona Rosewood
Dense, upright, and built for full sun.
Twisted Myrtle
You've already got this by the pool, more here ties the two areas together.
What's happened here, and how to actually turn it around
Hugh walked me through the history here, a couple years of targeted weed treatment followed by new sod laid this past May without tilling or amending the soil first, and the sod still hasn't taken despite watering it three times a day for the last month.
That track record makes sense once you look at the soil itself rather than just the grass on top of it. Repeated chemical weed treatment knocks back the microbial life in the soil, and sod laid onto that without any prep never had healthy ground to root into. More water on soil that can't hold or use it well just favors weeds, which fill in struggling bare soil faster than turfgrass does. My approach is to rebuild that soil biology directly rather than watering harder or spot-treating symptoms.
Quality compost and organic fertilizer bring the fungi, bacteria, and everything else that makes soil actually alive back into that ground. It takes a little longer to see results than another chemical treatment would, but it builds a self-sustaining system, healthy soil crowds out weeds on its own over time and makes the grass far more resilient, so you're not stuck re-fighting the same problems every season. For any weeds that pop up in the meantime, I'd handle those by hand-pulling or flame weeding rather than another spray, so we're not undoing the soil work while we're trying to do it.
Here's how that looks as a program, based on what you're looking to cover:
Backyard Grass Only
- Liquid soil-building feeding focused on the backyard lawn
Front & Backyard Grass Only
- Same program, covering both lawn areas
Full Landscape
- Lawn, trees, and beds all included
- Compost applied three times a year
- Helps the trees recover faster from the root flare work too
One more thing worth flagging for down the road, not right now since you just put new sod in: once the trees get thinned out and start recovering, they'll actually throw more shade as they fill back in and heal. Bermuda doesn't hold up well in shade, and St. Augustine handles it a lot better. It's not something to act on today, but it's worth keeping in mind as a future option if shade becomes more of an issue.
Wherever you want to start
The root flare work and the soil program actually support each other, healthier soil helps the trees recover faster once the flares are exposed, and the trees getting thinned out helps the lawn get more even light. Text me whenever you're ready and I'll put together pricing for whichever you want to move on first.
For turf or irrigation questions, Garrett is my go-to, you can reach him directly at 480-678-9121.